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Turntables are one of the more difficult audio components to pack for safe
transit. Having been a dealer for many brands of tables over the past 20+
years, I know what works and what doesn’t. I have un-boxed many new
tables that were packed using “factory” packing. When tables are
shipped from the manufacturer, they are generally shipped with the platter
and the dustcover removed and stored in recesses, that are molded into
their custom made Styrofoam packing, that was designed by professionals
that have researched what works and what doesn’t. Unless the original
foam packing is included with a table (and it rarely is) and is intact,
custom and sufficient / appropriate packing must then be made. While every
turntable presents a different packing challenge, there are some basic
procedures that we repeat and so far has resulted in almost flawless
success. No system is “fool-proof” (even factory packaging) and there
are likely a few other variations that will work equally well, maybe
better, but not following these or other appropriate procedures is likely
a recipe for failure.
Prior to the packing, the table is prepped for packing. If it is a
“single play” type table, the platter is removed. The platter can
weigh anywhere from a pound or two to as much as 10 or 20 lbs. As a
“static” load this isn’t too bad, but when being dropped from a
stack of boxes or a delivery truck, a 4 lb platter can pretty easily reach
a weight in motion of 40-80 lbs. Much more weight than the plinth and
spindle / bearing were ever designed to handle. Leaving the platter in
place will generally result in a bent spindle, warped bearing, busted
plinth or a combination of these. We’ll talk about what is done with the
platter and rubber mat later. Next if there are any transport screws (not
as common on single play turntables as changers, but may still be used)
they should be engaged, which usually means turning them counter-clockwise
to there “out” position. Some single-play tables may have had
transport screws, but they are usually removed for use and subsequently
have been lost. Suitable replacements should be found and installed unless
other ways of stabilizing the suspension are available such as the use of
shims. On changer / stacker type tables or tables that need their
suspension secured, and if the locking screws are not available, then 5”
shrink film is used to secure the platter and / or suspension in place
(done with dust cover removed). Also on stacker type tables, the long play
spindle is removed. If available the “short-play” spindle will be
installed prior to the shrink wrap operation as this is a great place to
“store” it for shipment. The long-play spindle will be bagged and
packed safely on it’s own. The tone-arm is then tied in place in it’s
“locked” position with a wire tie. The counter-weight is either then
removed and packed separately or held in place by foam. Many styluses and
dust-covers are damaged / destroyed by counter-weights flying around
inside that were not secured. Next the dust-cover is reinstalled if it had
been removed. If there is room between the turntable base and the dust
cover then thin “poly-lam” foam is placed in between the two. Next the
dust-cover is VERY FIRMLY secured in place with shrink film from every
direction. Once sealed down the turntable and dustcover becomes a solid
unit. No motion is allowed.
Next, our tables are always, housed in a 2" sheet foam
"box" that fits exactly. Once the table is sealed and there are
no parts inside "rattling around" to break things or scratch the
dust cover, it is put into the foam box. On some tables that have
suspension built into the feet, small depressions need to be
"dug" in to the foam where the feet are, so that the tables
weight is not on them for shipping. The internal suspension is not
sufficient for this. Any "play" or space inside the foam box,
will be filled with foam or bubble wrap. Then a top plate of 2",
high-density “pink” foam is sealed tight to the rest of the foam box
with the stretch film. Prior to that if there's any space between the top
of the dustcover and the foam "lid" that should is also filled.
We generally use a small sheet of 1/2" bubble wrap to do that. The
platter and rubber mat are stretch filmed to the top of the box taking
care to make sure the mat is not bent or allowed to bend / wrinkle. The
best way to ensure this is to place the mat down first on the box, then
cover it with the platter positioned up-side down, to hold it in place.
This is then stretch filmed in place on the top of the foam box. Once the
foam box is finish packed, it is then suspended inside the outside box,
using loose fill (foam peanuts).
We ship about 50-60 tables a year (about 750 units total a year) and have
an almost spotless track record. From the "un-scientific" survey
we have done from customers calling / emailing for parts / insurance claim
amounts on units shipped from e__y and similar sellers, we see about an
80% failure rate on electronics / tables / reel to reel machines. I have a
customer who recently ordered 10 tables (mostly from all different
sellers) and he said 4 came in undamaged due to inappropriate packaging.
The worst thing about this is that the world has lost a lot of really cool
vintage gear:-(
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The tone-arm is then tied in place in it’s “locked” position
with a wire tie on the Dual 500 series.
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...or held in place with suitable measures such as on the B&O Beogram 3000. |
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Next if there are any transport screws (not as common on single play
turntables as changers, but may still be used) they should be engaged,
which usually means turning them counter-clockwise to there “out”
position. Some single-play tables may have had transport screws, but they
are usually removed for use and subsequently have been lost.
Photo of Dual 500 series above.
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Transports screw in "locked" up position for shipping.
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Prior to the packing, the table is prepped for packing. If it is a
“single play” type table, the platter is removed. The platter can
weigh anywhere from a pound or two to as much as 10 or 20 lbs. As a
“static” load this isn’t too bad, but when being dropped from a
stack of boxes or a delivery truck, a 4 lb platter can pretty easily reach
a weight in motion of 40-80 lbs. Much more weight than the plinth and
spindle / bearing were ever designed to handle. Leaving the platter in
place will generally result in a bent spindle, warped bearing, busted
plinth or a combination of these. We’ll talk about what is done with the
platter and rubber mat later.
Sansui SR/4040 photo.
(Photo shows internal & integrated platter and not the main
"heavy" platter that has already been removed. In this case
stabilizing shims were added to the internal platter)
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The counter-weight is either then removed (if
practical) and packed separately or
held in place by foam. Many styluses and dust-covers are damaged /
destroyed by counter-weights flying around inside that were not secured
or removed.
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Photo Marantz 6100 series |

Foam pad added between dust cover and integrated platter for further
protection.
Sansui SR/4040 |

Next the dust-cover is VERY FIRMLY secured in place with shrink film
from every direction. Once sealed down the turntable and dustcover becomes
a solid unit. No motion is allowed.
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...Photo B&O Beogram 3000 |

Next, our tables are always, housed in a 2" sheet foam
"box" that fits exactly. Once the table is sealed and there are
no parts inside "rattling around" to break things or scratch the
dust cover, it is put into the foam box. On some tables that have
suspension built into the feet, small depressions need to be
"dug" in to the foam where the feet are, so that the tables
weight is not on them for shipping. The internal suspension is not
sufficient for this.
Photo B&O Beogram 3000
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Any "play" or space inside the foam box, will be filled with
foam or bubble wrap.
Photo Sansui SR/4040
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A sheet with specific un-packing / re-assembly instructions included with
every table. |
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Then a top plate of 2", high-density “pink” foam is sealed
tight to the rest of the foam box with the stretch film. Prior to that if
there's any space between the top of the dustcover and the foam
"lid" that should is also filled to eliminate
up / down movement. We generally use a small sheet
of 1/2" bubble wrap to do that.
|
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The platter and rubber mat are stretch filmed to the top of the box
taking care to make sure the mat is not bent or allowed to bend / wrinkle.
The best way to ensure this is to place the mat down first on the box,
then cover it with the platter positioned up-side down, to hold it in
place. This is then stretch filmed in place on the top of the foam box.
Photo B&O Beogram 3000
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Once the foam box is finish packed, it is then suspended inside the
outer box, using loose fill (foam peanuts).
Photo prior to covering the top and sealing the box. |
We ship about 50-60 tables a
year (about 750 units total a year) and have a
virtually spotless track
record. From the "un-scientific" survey we have done from
customers calling / emailing for parts / insurance claim amounts on units
shipped from e__y and similar sellers, we see about an 80% failure
(not success) rate on
electronics / tables / reel to reel machines. I have a customer
/ collector who
recently ordered 10 tables (mostly from all different sellers) and he said
6 came in damaged due to inappropriate packaging.
2 had damage that appeared to be from lack of packing, but could have
existed prior to shipping. 2 fared decently, but by only luck as NONE were
packed appropriately. The worst thing about
this is that the world has lost a lot of really cool vintage gear:-(
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